Sel de la Terre

To go along with its spanking-new digs, the Back Bay outpost of this country-French standby has installed a smart but casual downstairs café with a menu to match. We're partial to the za'atar-crusted wings and the two-handed burger with smoky bacon and Vermont cheddar (made positively gut-busting by a foie gras torchon), but since nothing tops $20, everything goes down easy. RUNNER-UP: Garden at the Cellar LAST YEAR: Blu