Rialto

Like a Verdian lothario, this town's upscale Italian has a knack for breaking hearts. Leave a place transported by its pillowy gnocchi, and you can bet your Bolognese it'll be dense as lead when you go back for more. Spending more while testing this category than for French and Steakhouse combined, we mourned the fall of every contender, with consistency issues (Bina), new-project distraction (Dante), service glitches (Sorellina), and failure to inspire (everyone else). Sorry for the lame valentine, Rialto, but we've got baggage. Just say your roast duck will remain tender and your stellar pastas will stay true, and we'll break this serial-monogamy habit once and for all. RUNNERS-UP: Erbaluce, Via Matta LAST YEAR: Dante