Grill 23 & Bar

Where others might lean on "steak wines" like big California cabs (yawn), Grill 23's DeWinter is likely to suggest a Paolo Bea Rosso 2000, from the little Umbrian town of Sagrantino, for your bone-in filet — he's just that excited about the unsung heroes in his cache of some 1,500 labels. Odds are, you will be, too. RUNNER-UP: Cat Silirie (Barbara Lynch Gruppo) LAST YEAR: Geoffrey Fallon (Les Zygomates)