Uni

O Ya may have the most incomparable raw-fish dinner in town, but the reality of its special-occasion status is that we tend to reserve it for exactly that: a special occasion. Chef Ken Oringer's sashimi bar, Uni, on the other hand, presents haute touches with such nonchalance that we feel no guilt about stopping in on a Tuesday night for a cilantro-and-cumin-laced plate of tuna tataki with foie gras and strawberries, or for slivers of firm, fresh Japanese octopus in tangy soy, ginger, and hot oil. Which we do happily, and often. RUNNER-UP: Oishii 2007 WINNER: O Ya