Legal Sea Foods

Red wine with meat, white wine with fish—whoa, not so fast! Wine director Sandy Block has compiled 40 pages (because 41 would just be silly) of bottles selected in blind tastings for menu compatibility, resulting in the ideal muscadet for those oysters and the right sangiovese for that spicy cioppino. Some three dozen vintages are available by the glass, and there are five tasting flights (three priced under $10) that change from one visit to the next. The inventory at last year's ace, Troquet, is still worthy, but at the end of the day the options and value are at Legal. RUNNERS-UP: Rendezvous, Via Matta LAST YEAR: Troquet