Formaggio Kitchen

If we could be anything in the next life, we'd come back as a mouse so we could gnaw our way into this wondrously stinky store. Even on a human scale, Formaggio's stock of cheese is jaw-droppingly vast, with wheels of Belgian Gouda, logs of superfresh Vermont chèvre, and blue-veined hunks of Spanish queso azul. The staff has tasted most of it, so ask for advice on what to buy — or even better, taste it yourself. They’re glad to share. RUNNER-UP A. Russo & Sons