The Paramount

For the umpteenth time, the Paramount is the returning champ in this category. Though many have tried, no establishment has managed to beat the restaurant at its game. Of course, a 73-year head start helps. But the Paramount also manages, quite successfully, to be everything to everyone, feeding a neighborhood of twentysomething renters, deans, doyennes, and the kiddie crowd three squares a day. You'll find a line out the door at breakfast, a fine steak frites at dinner, and a smile on everyone's face at all times of day. RUNNER-UP 75 Chestnut