Gleaming, deep-cup Island Creek oysters. Salty-sweet Wellfleets. Fleshy shrimp and crab so tender, they go down in one gulp. This is the oceanís bounty as originally interpreted by way of French brasseries: an icy onslaught of shellfish that is mostly raw (of course), but occasionally cooked (as with the Jonah crab claws). Everything is so fresh, the sauces and mignonettes ought to be superfluous—and yet theyíre so damn tasty, you canít leave them alone.