Kai Gagnon (Bergamot)

Don’t underestimate Kai Gagnon because of his soft-spoken gentility. The man knows his wine, and better yet, he knows what the palate wants. At Bergamot, he’s crafted an adventurous, not-so-typical list of bottles that leans on France but can also swing from Texas Hill Country to Mount Etna. Celebrating such unconventional wines isn’t just for show—he (and the floor staffers he’s clearly enlightened) can create crafty pairings with chef Keith Pooler’s ever-changing menu.