Mooo

Scrap all the formulas for what makes a great steakhouse (clubby this, old-world that) and swap them for brave new interpretations. That’s just what the team behind Mooo (chef Jamie Mammano and partner Paul Roiff) did, and this year, the place has come into its own. The room hews more to regal French than chop house—as does the exacting, well-timed service. Still, a steakhouse is about the meat, and Mooo bumps it up a notch—à la the pepper-crusted prime sirloin au poivre or the beef Wellington with foie gras and duxelles that’s as gloriously reinvented as the restaurant itself.