Part historic hotel, part gathering place for cheery locals (who congregate in the Phelps Barn bar), the Old Tavern feels like a well-kept secret. The 30-room inn's creaky floorboards and antiques-laden, TV-free guest rooms hark back to simpler times. It's blessedly quiet, but don't oversleep - the hearty breakfast of local fare, including Grafton Village cheddar, is not to be missed.