Chef Gabriel Bremer’s menu is blissfully free of the buzzwords of the moment. That’s because he knows what he does, and he does it consistently well. Witness a frothy dollop of foam atop an amuse-bouche of creamy squash soup, or a soft-cooked egg lounging on steel-cut-oat “risotto.” And then there’s the duck for two — with crispy, lavender-honey-glazed skin and tender meat, it’s so exquisitely prepared that you need to order it in advance (and you should).

Salts | 798 Main St., Cambridge, MA | 617-876-8444 | http://saltsrestaurant.com