Who knew a gas station could be so appealingly reborn as a restaurant? And yet, all of Brookline seems to be angling for a seat at this new bistro. Its classic French dishes teem with fresh, local seafood and sustainably raised ingredients (the mussels escargot and house-made gnocchi are particular coups). Bonus points for the occasional $1 oyster specials and first-rate desserts.

Cognac Bistro | 455 Harvard Street, Brookline, MA | 617-232-5800 | http://www.cognacbistro.com/