The city’s Italian-dining scene skews either reasonably authentic (yet undistinguished), or posh (but not quite legit). Rialto bridges the gap with seasonal, from-scratch cooking (strands of bucatini with lobster and saffron; salumi with house-made ricotta) and attentive, special-occasion-worthy service. Chef Jody Adams’s regional menus, which spotlight a different part of Italy every two months, are delightful, especially when paired with the suggested wines.

Rialto | One Bennett St., Cambridge, MA | 617-661-5050 | http://rialto-restaurant.com