"Vee" Is for Variable

Jamaica Plain buzzes over the arrival of any new eatery. So word of Vee Vee's February opening spread quickly, with hype fueled by the auspicious backgrounds of owners Dan and Kristen Valachovic, who got their start at J.P. faves Centre Street Café and Zon's.

Vee Vee's menu is light and lovely, all seasonal vegetables and seafood. At $15 to $20 per entrée, it's also affordable. Unfortunately, the execution is slightly uneven. Creamy wild mushroom pâté was a hit, but a salad of romaine, olives, and preserved lemon turned out to be a mound of pallid greens doused in lemon juice. A half-dozen oysters came with a mignonette like an acid bath. A seared cod entrée was perfectly cooked, but wild mushroom turnovers seemed more like giant hors d'oeuvres.

In other words, Vee Vee is still a little green. But with strong service and spot-on prices, it's certainly one to watch.

763 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-522-0145, veeveejp.com.