Bangers and Heirloom Mash?

Townsend's ratchets up traditional pub fare in a sleepy Boston enclave.

By Charles Kelsey

: TOP OF THE PUB: Where everyone knows your microgreens' name. Photo by Lisa Richov.

The neighborly vibe at new Hyde Park gastropub Townsend's is not instantly apparent. The sleek bar area, lofty ceilings, and understated elegance of the airy dining room portend fine dining. But the massive fireplace, ancient wood flooring, and beer-centric drink list are a good tip-off to the cozy groove on offer. The menu is a dead giveaway, showcasing retooled pub fare like "Berkshire Porter and scallion battered fish and chips." Our favorite was the shepherd's pie, a neat, layered cylinder served atop a crunchy corn cake and intense in flavor, thanks to the refined meat-sauce reduction and vibrant red pepper coulis. Proprietors Michael and Rosaleen Tallon boast serious public-house pedigree, having put in time at popular establishments in Ireland and locally (the Swan and the Kendall Café in Cambridge). Even if the fancied-up food weren't half this good, the convivial atmosphere would draw you in.

81 Fairmount Ave., Hyde Park, 617-333-0306, townsendsrestaurant.com

Originally published in Boston magazine, July 2008

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right on
Posted by | Jun. 24, 2008 at 11:25 AM

COMMENT:

Your reviewer hit the nail on the head!!! We have enjoyed the updated and tasty menu at Townsends---Thanks for the recommendation!!!

Mixed bag
Posted by | Jul. 7, 2008 at 2:46 PM

COMMENT:

I am thrilled to have Townsend's in Hyde Park. Overall the food is good - I have had the fish and chips, salmon, and ribs. However, a few things are bothersome ... -- The beer is very overpriced -- The shepherds pie is very small especially for $22 -- Brussell sprouts are good, but I would expect more than 8 sprouts on a $7 side dish -- The "no substitution" policy is annoying. My elderly mother asked if she could have mashed instead of black rice with her salmon. The answer was - no substitutions, but you can order a side of mashed! Probably would go once or twice a week if it were not for these problems.