Cheap Thrills

Festive bubbly that’s right on the money.

By Annie B. Copps

: Photo by Keller + Keller.

Cork-Screwed
One of the best bargain sparklers comes with strings attached.

In the search for an inexpensive sparkling wine, it’s hard to beat Martellozzo Prosecco, a $6.99 pleaser that hails from Italy’s Veneto region. There’s a catch, though: The straight-sided cork—wedged deep into the bottle’s neck and wrapped with thin string—can be a devil to pop out. Unlike champagne corks, this one requires a corkscrew and a surprising amount of muscle, not to mention nerves of steel as you tug on a stopper under pressure.

But then, that’s the Italian way. “It’s the traditional prosecco cork,” says Lisa Cirace of V. Cirace & Son, an Italian wine shop in the North End. “When it’s bottled for consumption in the United States, they normally use a regular cork finish. But in the Veneto, everyday pro-secco is corked with that string.” So be brave: Authenticity rarely comes so cheap. —A.T. Available at Trader Joe’s, traderjoes.com.

Filling up on sparkling wine without draining the bank usually means looking beyond champagne to popular Italian and Spanish versions like prosecco and cava, but it’s often tough to separate the gems from the plonk. Fortunately, there’s an abundance of delicious, locally available options, all of which can be had for less than $25.

1. Graham Beck Brut ($15–$18) Connoisseurs are over the moon for this chardonnay and pinot noir blend from South Africa. The light toasty aroma, fine bubbles, and hint of stone fruits make this a very food-friendly wine to pour anytime. Available at: Cambridge Wine & Spirits, Lower Falls Wine Co., Whole Foods Market.

2. Mionetto Sergio Extra Dry ($20–$24) This northern Italian cuvée (or blend) of prosecco di valdobbiadene grapes with a touch of bianchetta, verdiso, and chardonnay translates to a nicely balanced bubbler with notes of pear and melon and a clean finish. Available at: Charles Street Liquors, J. Pace & Son.

3. Casteller Cava Brut ($10–$12) It takes 18 months to produce this beautiful Spanish blend of macabeo, parellada, and xarello grapes. The result is a well-structured wine filled with green apple flavors and a kiss of sweetness. Available at: Nine East Wine Emporium, the Wine Press.

4. Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut Rosé ($19–$22) This pale salmon-hued sparkling wine from France’s Loire Valley is made from cabernet franc grapes that come out of the bottle with a subtle taste of strawberry and apricot, and a crisp mineral freshness. Available at: Brookline Liquor Mart, Wine Bottega.

5. Laetitia Brut Cuvée ($15–$22) From the up-and-coming San Luis Obispo, California, wine region comes a striking cuvée of chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot blanc made using traditional French methods. (Note: Don’t confuse it with the very French “Laetitia” champagne from H. Billiot Fils—which is excellent, but can set you back $80.) Available at: Brookline Liquor Mart, DeLuca’s Market.

6. Saint-Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux Blanc de Blancs 2003 ($12–$14) A full century before Dom Perignon was experimenting with sparkling wine at the Abbey of Hautvillers, the Benedictine monks of the Saint-Hilaire Abbey of Limoux, France, first bottled this fizzy chardonnay. The bubbles are especially small, with aromatic biscuit notes. Available at: Blanchards, Fine Wine Cellars of Chestnut Hill, the Wine Emporium.

Originally published in Boston magazine, December 2007