In Chinatown, some of the best food can be found at the dumpiest restaurants. But outside the city, peeling paint and worn carpets usually bespeak the kind of greasy cooking that gives American Chinese food a bad rap. One such joint, Newtonville's Golden Star, was recently reborn as Rice Valley—transforming a forgettable space into a bright light on the suburban dining scene.

The bar still pours vintage tiki cocktails, but has added a terrific bone-dry saketini. The menu includes peppy renditions of Szechwan, Hunan, and Mandarin classics punched up with fresh vegetables and the occasional searing chili. Try the crispy whole sea bass or the cold noodles with peanut sauce, or watch as servers stuff giant lettuce leaves with minced chicken and fried bits of rice noodle for a messy and delightful appetizer. When it's done this deliciously, gentrification is a win-win.

821 Washington St., Newtonville, 617-558-7666. $$