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Dining, Food & Wine

Eat 2008: Where to Dine Now

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Four Worth-Every-Penny Feasts
When you want to splurge, tasting menus offer great value, with multiple courses of the chef’s finest work for less than you’d pay à la carte. A sampler of dishes from a few of the city’s elite:

Tasting Menu No. 1: Salts

Nantucket bay scallops with black truffles, Meyer lemon, and celery
Roasted local beets with caramelized apple and smoked yogurt
Crisp pork confit with Macumber turnip, tart cherries, and gingerbread
“S’mores”: chocolate, caramel marshmallow, graham cracker, and wild cherry smoke

Five courses total for $75 (add $25 for wine pairings). 798 Main St., Cambridge, 617-876-8444, saltsrestaurant.com.

Tasting Menu No. 2: Clio

Cured kinmedai and smoked Maine sea urchin with goldenberries, salsa, and caviar
Bay scallops with Chantenay carrot, nigella seeds, and argan oil
Brandade soup with russet potato, quail egg, black truffle, and gold leaf
Grilled Wagyu with toasted japonica rice, hayashi marinade, and matsutake mushrooms
Truffle-crusted sole with Brussels sprouts, crispy chestnuts, and coffee sauce Normande
Foie gras terrine with Concord grapes, yogurt, and candied anise

14 courses total for $135 (add $100 for wine pairings). 370 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-536-7200, cliorestaurant.com.

Tasting Menu No. 3: O Ya

Kumamoto oyster with watermelon pearls and cucumber mignonette
Spot prawn with garlic butter, white soy, and preserved yuzu
Chilled daikon “dumpling” with miso-cashew “cheese,” kimchi, seaweed, pine nut mayo, and nori sauce
Foie gras with balsamic chocolate unagi sauce, raisin-cocoa pulp, and sake
Tamago roll with dashi sauce, black truffles, robiola cheese, and chives
Yellowjack tuna and sea urchin with ceviche vinaigrette and cilantro
Seared Wagyu with smoked potato, grilled onion, and freshly grated wasabi
Hamachi with soy, caviar, and fresh citrus

14 courses total for $120–$300 (sake pairing prices vary). 9 East St., Boston, 617-654-9900.

Tasting Menu No. 4: Craigie Street Bistrot

Chili-marinated lemonfish with purple sweet potato and matsutake mushrooms
Roasted marrow with smoked beef tongue, escargots, and shiitake mushrooms
Banyuls-cured duck breast and fennel-and-pepper-cured lardo
Venison sausage–stuffed quail with apples, raisins, and autumn olive coulis
Mocha mille-feuille with homemade graham crackers and pear-saffron sauce

Seven courses total for $115 (wine pairing prices vary). 5 Craigie Cir., Cambridge, 617-497-5511, craigiestreetbistrot.com.

 

To find out why the Boston entree is slowly shrinking, go on to the next page...

 


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User comments

Myers & Chang
Jan. 3, 2008 at 7:53 AM
Posted by Anonymous
Myers & Chang is NOT a reasonably priced restaurant. The "entrees" may appear to be inexpensive but the portions are small. Unless you and your dining partners want to share, it's not a spot for a relaxing or enjoyable place to eat. Entrees all arrive at different times -- so unless you want to share an item, you and your companion will not be eating together. Yes, the menu alerts you to this possibility, but it just doesn't work well. Sake is served cold, which should be mentioned on the menu and at $9 a glass, it's the most expensive pour in the city, in other words, a very small amount is served.
rocca is not reasonable midprice
Jan. 10, 2008 at 7:45 PM
Posted by Anonymous
VERY BAD ACOUSTIC
Look over there, right about your left shift key
Jan. 11, 2008 at 2:34 PM
Posted by Anonymous
You're not in Myers & Chang right at this moment, are you? Then QUIT SHOUTING, please. Hit that Caps Lock button, for the love of all that's holy.
It's a restaurant, not a grocery store.
Jan. 21, 2008 at 10:23 PM
Posted by Anonymous
Why don't restaurant writers know anything about restaurants? There is no "numbers game" except that as businesses restaurants require more income than outlay. Most of your money goes to rent, interest on building costs. people, insurance, municipal fees, garbage and to amortizing the original design costs. Or as one great chef said, the food's free. You're paying rent on the chairs. You want large portions, go to Cheesecake factory. Otherwise pay more. Not enough? Pay more.
Who said anything about a "numbers game"?
Feb. 10, 2008 at 8:08 PM
Posted by Anonymous
Can someone point me to the "numbers game" cited in the above post? I can't find what (s)he's talking about anywhere.
Oh, there it is...
Feb. 13, 2008 at 12:37 AM
Posted by Anonymous
In the Arnett article. Hey, the "numbers game" reference is just in the subtitle. Are you challenging the substance of the article, or just the subtitle? Because the premise of the article strikes me as pretty credible and interesting (chef/owners reducing portion sizes to bring down retail prices), while your rant about the economics of the restaurant industry seems kind of thuddingly obvious. But, yeah, I guess that subtitle does suck. The author probably didn't write it, but thanks for pointing that out.
You Left out dbar as a moderately priced restaurant
Mar. 13, 2008 at 12:14 PM
Posted by Laurie Coombs
I highly recommend taking a trip to Dorchester to check out dbar located on Dot Ave. The food there is unexcelled!!! Owner Brian Piccini and Executive Chef Christopher Coombs are onto something GREAT!!!

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