Small Bites Article

Eclectic Blues

Watertown's latest exposes the perils of trying to please all.

By Carmen Nobel

MIXING IT UP: Comfort's menu casts a wide net. Photo by Rebecca Spitzer.

Situated above the Persian restaurant Molana in Watertown Square, Comfort offers casual sustenance in a beautiful space: an exposed-brick dining room overlooking a quiet alley, and a cozy bar with a lengthy wine list and a cadre of patrons who all seem to know each other already. With the exception of a few Middle Eastern appetizers, the menu reads like a Google search for “comfort food”—mac and cheese, spaghetti and meatballs, burritos, burgers, and the rest of the usual suspects. As is often the case with such an eclectic menu, the execution thus far is hit-and-miss: A lamb and beef kibbeh appetizer was spiced perfectly, but the aforementioned mac and cheese was underseasoned, and a lamb chop ordered medium-rare showed up barely seared, a little too raw for comfort.

5 Spring St., Watertown, 617-924-3220, eatcomfortfood.com

Originally published in Boston magazine, August 2008
 

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