Dining Features Article

In the Limelight

One chef. Five cuisines. One funky fruit is the common denominator.

By Jane Black

Illustration by Joe McKendry.
“I stop at nowhere and nothing to find new ingredients,” says Boston über-chef and almost obsessive world traveler Ken Oringer, who this spring opens two restaurants: La Verdad, a taqueria on Lansdowne Street, and KO Prime, a modern steakhouse at the Nine Zero Hotel. But no matter what—or where—he’s cooking, Oringer relies on a few favorite exotic flavors. Look closely and you’ll spot Indian lime pickle, for instance, at his sashimi bar Uni and tapas joint Toro—and the juice of the fragrant calamansi, a Southeast Asian lime, everywhere.

Clio
Salmon poached in extra-virgin olive oil
Served with kohlrabi, calamansi-marinated grapefruit, and white asparagus. The twist: “The intense calamansi cuts the grapefruit’s sourness and plays off the fattiness of the fish.” 370 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-536-7200, cliorestaurant.com.

K0 Prime
Calamansi Gimlet
Lime vodka, calamansi, ginger, and green tea. The twist: “Exactly what I mean by ‘modern.’ The calamansi allows for a fresh take on a standard.” Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., Boston, 617-772-0202, koprimeboston.com.

Toro
Ceviche de pulpo
Raw octopus marinated in calamansi juice, green apple, yellow pepper juice, and ñora pepper. The twist: “Octopus can be bland. Here, calamansi gives an exotic-flavor punch.” 1704 Washington St., Boston, 617-536-4300.

La Verdad
Cocteles
Mexican shrimp cocktail with chili sauce, avocado, pineapple, and calamansi. The twist: “Calamansi makes this classic my own. Mexicans make it with lime and ketchup. I want to be different.” One Lansdowne St., Boston, 617-351-2580.

Uni
Shima-aji and aji
Striped jack and horse mackerel sashimi with calamansi gelée. The twist: “Mackerel, let alone horse mackerel, scares people. Calamansi neutralizes the oily taste in a way that a plain lemon or lime can’t.” 370 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-536-7200, cliorestaurant.com.
Originally published in Boston magazine, April 2007
 

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