Loaves of Fun

With the recent debut of the When Pigs Fly bakery on Highland Avenue, Davis Square is approaching full gourmet-enclave status. (Now all it needs is a cheese shop, a chichi greengrocer, and maybe another bistro.) Headquartered in York, Maine, the company is one that many Bostonians may already know, as its breads have long been sold, presliced and bagged, in area markets. The loaves are still baked up north, but arrive at the Davis Square outpost fresh and warm each morning (though opening time is 10 a.m., the friendly staff usually welcomes early-bird customers). In style and flavor, this is the J. P. Licks of bread: all about bold, fancy ingredients packed into a well-crafted product. Orange-pistachio-cranberry and kalamata olive–roasted red pepper are popular staples, and the Sicilian green olive–cherry pepper loaf makes a great grilled cheese sandwich. If you're looking for austere French purity, forget it. What you'll find here is bread worth its weight in bacon.

378B Highland Ave., Somerville, 617-776-0021, sendbread.com.