Mixed Grill

In a town whose culinary markings have for decades run the gamut from Irish to Irish, the South American–influenced bistro fare on offer at Masona Grill is daring. Opened in July by Claremont Café alum Manny Sifnugel, Masona welcomes patrons with a space that’s cozy and inviting. If only the food weren’t so bloody uneven. The pâté served with homemade bread and cornichons was pleasingly French, and the daily selection of raw fish ceviche was well seasoned with lime and cilantro. But a wild mushroom empanada tasted straight out of the toaster oven, and scallops, though tender, arrived atop a bed of bland green risotto. Consistency comes at the hands of new pastry chef Diane Devlin, formerly of the Ashmont Grill and Sifnugel’s old Claremont pal. Even though our first (and second) choice for dessert had sold out, the rich pumpkin tart and lemon roulade that arrived were sweet consolations. Thankfully, reasonable prices make experimentation here painless—just remember to order dessert first.

4 Corey St., West Roxbury, 617-323-3331, masonagrill.net.