Among Haymarket’s beer-soaked pubs, Anthem is a restaurant with sophistication, service, and down-to-earth food. A mix of surprisingly well-behaved sports fans, thirtysomethings, tourists, and suits from the surrounding office buildings keeps the place bustling despite the cavernous space. Dishes are reasonably priced and approachable—steamed mussels, fried calamari, hearty entrées of chicken, steak, and pork. Simple though they are, each dish carries a subtle streak of considerable talent and creativity. A liberal use of heat and spice (by way of curry, horseradish, and pepperoncini) is matched by ingredients (papaya, frisée, seaweed) rarely seen on this neighborhood’s other menus.