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Restaurant L

234 Berkeley St.
Boston, MA 02116

Phone: 617-266-4680

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Website: louisboston.com

Louis Boston, being the arbiter of chic, has long harbored young talent both on its shelves and within its in-store café, Restaurant L. Pino Maffeo, who grew up in the North End but cooked around New York and San Francisco, brings fusion dishes into sharp focus with careful technique and a clear understanding of flavors. Wok-seared lobster and scallops swimming in a Thai bouillabaisse reads more New England than Thai, and the “market beef” is criminally good. The restaurant itself, however, seems an afterthought, with bare floors and sheetrock walls; French garden rattan chairs and concrete make the cool room truly cold. Still, the great food; wine list focused on moderate- to high-priced American wines; and knowledgeable, enthusiastic, and friendly staff make up for a lot.