Summer Escapes: The Catskills, NY

In the late 1800s, years before air conditioning (and tank tops, for that matter) Bostonians sweltered through the city’s humid, malodorous season. And just like today, when the haves— and a few have-nots—retreat to cooler climes, legions of Brahmins fled the city, forging into New York’s mountainous Catskills region.

Encompassing six counties, more than 6,000 square miles, and dozens of Mayberry-esque main streets, the Catskills remained a popular vacation destination through the 1950s, when grand summer resorts—à la Kellerman’s in Dirty Dancing—hosted families for the whole season. Later, as more travelers spent their time (and cash) abroad, tourism in the area fell sharply. But Ulster County, just west of the Hudson River, including New Paltz, Woodstock, and Saugerties, has experienced a rebirth, thanks to an influx of artists seeking space to stretch their legs and minds. With countless parks and thousands of miles of trails, stretching is just the beginning—there’s also hiking, rock climbing, biking, tubing, and indulging in mountain spas.

New Paltz is an ideal home base from which to explore the Catskills region. The up-and-coming college town now bustles with new boutiques and eateries; modern American standout Beso is a must (46 Main St., 845-255-1426, www.beso-resaurant.com). After strolling through the Water Street Market antique shops (10 Main St., 845-255-1403), pick up part of the Wallkill Valley Rail Trail (www.gorailtrail.com). The 12.2-mile converted railroad track is perfect for walking or biking. Rock climbing on the Shawangunk Mountains just outside New Paltz provides a more extreme adventure, with 300 feet of vertical terrain. The ever-so-patient guides at Alpine Endeavors have first-timers harnessed and maneuvering tiny crevasses in no time (845-658-3094, www.alpineendeavors.com).

While the natural rewards of climbing hundreds of hair-raising feet are many, your muscles will be singing another story. Thankfully, the Smiley family has renovated its 1869 Mohonk Mountain House to include a $13 million, 30,000-square-foot spa (800-772-6646, www.mohonk.com). The Victorian castle-meets-Mediterranean resort offers nature walks, carriage rides, golf, and 85 miles of hiking and walking trails. Indulge in an Elements of Nature Shawangunk Grit Body Treatment—a hydrotub massage, exfoliation, warm oil wrap, and “guided” power nap—before wandering about the 2,200-acre property.

Next, meander through countless small hamlets to the town of Woodstock, where high-end clothing stores sit down the street from stands selling hippie paraphernalia. The smell of incense will seem miles away on the town’s Overlook Trail, a 2-plus-mile stretch of road that ends at one of the region’s five historic fire towers (elevation, 3,140 feet).

Northeast of Woodstock is Saugerties, the most yuppified Catskill town. Hip restaurants—Dutch-inspired Café With Love (85 Partition St., 845-246-1795), comfort-food favorite Miss Lucy’s Kitchen (90 Partition St., 845-246-9240)—and shops such as French-inspired home store Arcadia (102 Partition St., 845-246-7371) and city-chic clothier Dig (89 Partition St., 845-246-3833) have reenergized the main drag. Saugerties Lighthouse is the top attraction, though, if only for its picnic tables and expansive Hudson River views (845-247-0656, www.saugertieslighthouse.com).

When the summer sun becomes all but unbearable, relief lies to the west in the tiny town of Phoenicia, the Catskills’ tubing capital. Town Tinker Tube Rental sets guests up with the necessary gear and points them in the direction of the 5-mile-long Esopus Creek (Bridge St., 845-688-5553, www.towntinker.com). The popular midsummer spot has both a gentle novice course and a rapid-heavy expert route.

Before crossing the border back into Massachusetts, stop at Kaaterskill Falls near the town of Haines Falls. A mountain road takes you deep into the Catskill Forest Preserve and to the base of an easy half-mile trail. The payoff: a 260-foot-high double-tiered waterfall so magnificent it has influenced artists from around the world, including Hudson River School painter Thomas Cole and writer William Cullen Bryant. You’ll be loathe to leave. —Hillary Geronemus

WHERE TO STAY: Mohonk Mountain House, New Paltz, 800-772-6646, www.mohonk.com, doubles from $415; Lefèvre House Bed & Breakfast, New Paltz, 845-255-4747, www.lefevrehouse.com, doubles from $185.