Going Green
Hip meets history in Dublin
Those who still think James Joyce and Guinness are the sole reasons to visit Ireland’s capital are woefully out of date. While it’s true that historic Dublin has its irrefutable charms, the city’s culture, shopping, and nightlife are now swimming in sophistication. Whether you want to lose yourself in history or see and be seen at hipper enclaves, our guide to the classic and contemporary Dublins guarantees a 21st-century experience.
>>CLASSIC Until the modern Shelbourne completes its facelift in September, stay at the Gresham, the city’s oldest hotel (353-1-874-6881, gresham-hotels.com). Sip tea in the lobby before shopping on historic Grafton Street, where upscale stores including Brown Thomas offer a mix of Irish and international designers (353-1-605-6666, brownthomas.com).
Continue your tour by visiting essential sights such as the vast 13th-century Dublin Castle and Ireland’s oldest university, Trinity College (353-1-677-7129, dublincastle.ie; 353-1-608-1000, tcd.ie). Then take time out for a traditional pint at Kehoe’s (353-1-677-8312). With its mahogany wall paneling and nicotine-stained ceilings, the bar feels like a throwback to another era. It should—draughts have been flowing here since 1803.
Grab dinner at the traditional Shanahan’s on the Green (353-1-407-0939, shanahans.ie). Restored by Bostonian John Shanahan in the late ‘90s and set in an 18th-century building, Dublin’s first American-style steakhouse boasts an ornate Georgian interior and famous Irish Angus beef dishes that will send you home satisfied.
>>CONTEMPORARY Overlooking the River Liffey, the Morrison is a nucleus of style-conscious scenesters (353-1-887-2400, morrisonhotel.ie). Last year, the boutique hotel added 49 guest rooms to its existing stable of John Rocha-designed suites, all of which feature such modern amenities as plasma TVs and iMacs.
While trendy chains like Reiss and TopShop have brought Brit chic to Dublin, save your shopping budget for Harvey Nichols (353-1-291-0488, harveynichols.com). If the department store’s collections of John Galliano and Marc Jacobs don’t do you in (along with your wallet), a decadent lunch at the in-house electric pink café just might.
After a day of browsing and buying, relax with a cocktail at Cocoon (353-1-679-6259). Plush leather armchairs and a clean white interior create the perfect setting to indulge in a dry dirty martini. Just a short walk away at Odessa, contemporary dishes such as roast venison with Jameson cream and pan-fried skate with hazelnut-herb butter will keep your American eyes smiling (353-1-670-7634, odessa.ie).
>>Aer Lingus flies direct from Boston to Dublin; aerlingus.com, 800-474-7424.
>>CLASSIC Until the modern Shelbourne completes its facelift in September, stay at the Gresham, the city’s oldest hotel (353-1-874-6881, gresham-hotels.com). Sip tea in the lobby before shopping on historic Grafton Street, where upscale stores including Brown Thomas offer a mix of Irish and international designers (353-1-605-6666, brownthomas.com).
Continue your tour by visiting essential sights such as the vast 13th-century Dublin Castle and Ireland’s oldest university, Trinity College (353-1-677-7129, dublincastle.ie; 353-1-608-1000, tcd.ie). Then take time out for a traditional pint at Kehoe’s (353-1-677-8312). With its mahogany wall paneling and nicotine-stained ceilings, the bar feels like a throwback to another era. It should—draughts have been flowing here since 1803.
Grab dinner at the traditional Shanahan’s on the Green (353-1-407-0939, shanahans.ie). Restored by Bostonian John Shanahan in the late ‘90s and set in an 18th-century building, Dublin’s first American-style steakhouse boasts an ornate Georgian interior and famous Irish Angus beef dishes that will send you home satisfied.
>>CONTEMPORARY Overlooking the River Liffey, the Morrison is a nucleus of style-conscious scenesters (353-1-887-2400, morrisonhotel.ie). Last year, the boutique hotel added 49 guest rooms to its existing stable of John Rocha-designed suites, all of which feature such modern amenities as plasma TVs and iMacs.
While trendy chains like Reiss and TopShop have brought Brit chic to Dublin, save your shopping budget for Harvey Nichols (353-1-291-0488, harveynichols.com). If the department store’s collections of John Galliano and Marc Jacobs don’t do you in (along with your wallet), a decadent lunch at the in-house electric pink café just might.
After a day of browsing and buying, relax with a cocktail at Cocoon (353-1-679-6259). Plush leather armchairs and a clean white interior create the perfect setting to indulge in a dry dirty martini. Just a short walk away at Odessa, contemporary dishes such as roast venison with Jameson cream and pan-fried skate with hazelnut-herb butter will keep your American eyes smiling (353-1-670-7634, odessa.ie).
>>Aer Lingus flies direct from Boston to Dublin; aerlingus.com, 800-474-7424.
Originally published in Boston magazine, May 2006
