Summer Escapes! 2009: The Great(est) Lakes

sandy beaches! thriving galleries! swimmin' holes!

MAINE: DAMARISCOTTA LAKE
MAINE WITHOUT THE PAIN
EVERY YEAR, TOURISTS INVADE midcoast Maine to OD on picturesque charm and jaw-dropping views of the surf—only to discover that the traffic along Route 1 is a buzzkill and that the ocean is freakin' freezing. Few have any clue that just a short detour inland lies a more accommodating freshwater haven for swimmers who love Maine but hate hypothermia. (The fish have it right: In late spring, thousands of alewives migrate from the Atlantic to the Damariscotta River to spawn.) About 14 miles long, the lake borders several communities, and vacation rentals are plentiful. Day-trippers kick back at Damariscotta Lake State Park, whose sandy beach and proximity to the ocean give saltwater fiends their fix. The surrounding area is dotted with freshwater swimming holes, and the little town of the same name is chock-full of art galleries. Meaning you can spend your vacation relaxing, then pick up a canvas or two of seascapes to enjoy, throng-free, at home. - Carmen Nobel

DIMENSIONS
4,686 acres
DEEPEST POINT
114 feet
WATER QUALITY
Due to fairly high phosphorus content, two of the lake's three basins are pegged as "average" by the University of Maine.
AQUATIC LIFE
Bullhead, large- and smallmouth bass, perch, pickerel
CRITTERS
Loons, shrews, foxes, weasels, the occasional cougar (and that's just the King Eider's Pub bar scene!)
OFF-LAKE ACTION
Pub-crawling; lighthouse-peeping

ITINERARY

PLAY: Take a dip in the adorable freshwater swimming hole at Bristol Dam (off Bristol Road/Route 130, Bristol, bristolparks.org), then check out the Pemaquid Point Lighthouse, which looks even better full-size than on the back of the 2003 Maine state quarter (1370 Bristol Rd., Bristol, 207-677-2492, lighthouse.cc). Take a gander at the quirky, gorgeous exhibit of artisanal rolling pins on the second floor of the Woodturning School (10 Cappelletti Dr., Damariscotta, 207-563-2345, woodturningschool.org).

EAT: Chef Rick Hirsch at the Damariscotta River Grill cooks with ingredients from local purveyors, such as Pemaquid oysters from the Damariscotta River (155 Main St., Damariscotta, 207-563-2992, damariscottarivergrill.com). King Eider's Pub serves casual grub to a lively bar crowd (2 Elm St., Damariscotta, 207-563-6008, kingeiderspub.com), while the frozen treats at Round Top Ice Cream are simply superb (526 Main St., Damariscotta, 207-563-5307).

SLEEP: Settle into a rustic cabin on a private stretch of the lake at Sunset Lodge (call for rates; 2 Sunset Ln., Jefferson, 718-789-9149, sunsetlodge.org). The ever-so-romantic Newcastle Inn has gas fireplaces and a guests-only tavern (suites start at $135; 60 River Rd., Newcastle, 207-563-5685, newcastleinn.com).


Above photos: From top, group dining at Sunset Lodge; the romance-ready Newcastle Inn.