Elizabeth Bomze

Menuology: Top-Secret Tuna (and Other Furtive Fare)

Ever since we got wise to Gaslight’s addictive Parisian street burger (see Consumer Index, April), an unlisted ground beef–stuffed baguette ($12.95), we’ve wondered how many other treats we’d missed by ordering off the printed menu like naifs. Quite a few,…

Menuology: Location, Location, Location

Brian Konefal wants you to try the lobster with lardo. He and his team at Bina Osteria buy raw fatback and cure it, then wrap it around sweet chunks of lobster. Konefal feels so invested in the dish, in fact,…

Menuology: A Real Basket Case

Sometime during the past 10 years, bread baskets took a turn for the fancier. Baguettes with foil-wrapped pats gave way to carbo-copias like Rialto‘s generous mix of olive-rosemary focaccia, Tuscan rolls, and grissini. Now, with profit margins shrinking and flour…