Sel de la Terre supplies expert bistro dishes that hew close to their French roots but with enough flair to keep diners interested. Start with tapaslike petits goûters, little plates of French olives or spreads designed to show off breads baked on the premises. Other dishes (priced $10 for first courses and $24 for entrÉes) have a magical touch: An artichoke soup with herb ricotta crostini is at once creamy and light; duck breast rubbed with rosemary and garlic comes with a buttery hash of fresh corn, diced potato, and chanterelles; while grilled Black Angus ribeye arrives with heavenly rosemary pommes frites. The well-trained staff and reasonably priced wine list pair perfectly.