Chef Evan Deluty made his name at the intimate restaurant Torch on Beacon Hill. But his star rose when he opened the bigger, brasher South End trattoria Stella. Fashionistas pack the joint every night and, in summer, spill out onto the patio for prime people-watching. Stella offers urban interpretations of classic Italian peasant fare like spicy sausage and broccoli rabe (served here with sweet, slow-roasted tomatoes), wild-mushroom pizza with a cracker-thin crust and a drizzle of truffle oil, as well as a wonderful version of crudo misto—sliced raw tuna and salmon served with a bright limoncello vinaigrette and a few shavings of nutty Parmesan. The menu strays from its roots for its popular Sunday brunch, where you can find omelets, French toast, and, of course, bloody marys.