Essentially a steakhouse with some New American touches, the Met Club (as locals call it) feels clubby, with a tobacco color scheme, low lighting, and plush booths with leather banquettes. The food doesn't aim for stylishness but focuses instead on the freshest ingredients: the house caprese uses sweet Italian buffalo-milk mozzarella and the tomato sauce, a nontraditional steakhouse selection, is made to order. Still, the draw is the beef, which rightly dominates the menu. The dry-aged prime sirloin and the grilled porterhouse are two must-haves. But by far the best flavored is the skirt steak, with a thick black char. Sides are more creative than your average steakhouse fare. We like the brÚlÉed butternut squash and classic creamed mash, and we know the Met's fries with truffle and Parmesan are addictive. For dessert, try the fresh, flaky galette—a freeform tart with a buttery crust and ideal balance of baked fruit and almond cream—which competes with the best downtown.