Welcome to Splitsville: In Favor of “For Two” Protein Portions

Photograph by Anthony Tieuli

The rise of small plates has ushered in an era of mealtime pluralism, enabling diners to sample more creative bites in a single sitting than ever before. But while variety is, of course, the spice of life, there’s something to be said for enjoying the same pleasing mouthful of salty, burnished roast chicken over and over (and over) again. That’s why, despite our passion for plate passing, we’re also craving proteins offered in “for two” portions—like the legendary roast duck at Salts, the whole braised oxtail at Brookline’s new Fairsted Kitchen, or the juniper-roasted cowboy steak (pictured) from Beacon Hill Bistro, where chef Joshua Lewin offers oft-changing, large-format options by request for diners hoping to hunker down with a hulking slab of meat. “Whatever we have been butchering for the week, we reserve larger portions,” Lewin says. “We might carve it, or leave it somewhat whole so that you can just share, have a beer, and unwind.” Which, to our mind, is the perfect proposition for a cold winter evening.