Restaurants

Time to Make the Ramen

While Boston sleeps, the broth slowly simmers at Ruckus. Here’s a peek at the kitchen’s labor-intensive 18-hour cooking process.

Photograph by Toan Trinh

5:30 p.m.

Chef Mike Stark starts by roasting 30 pounds of chicken backs, 50 pounds of pork bones, and 20 pounds of chicken feet in a 425-degree oven.

6 p.m.

The bones are dumped into a stockpot with water and brought to a boil.

6:45 p.m.

Roughly chopped lemongrass, charred ginger, garlic cloves, dried mushrooms, roasted onions, dried yatsufusa chilies, and roasted pork skins get tossed into the bubbling cauldron.

7 p.m. to 10 a.m.

The broth slowly simmers overnight.

10 a.m.

The liquid is brought back to a boil to emulsify the fat, bolstering its silky mouthfeel.

11 a.m.

Stark removes the broth from the heat and enhances it with kombu (dried kelp).

11:30 a.m.

Out goes the kombu and in comes the final flavoring agent: umami-rich bonito flakes.

Noon

The steaming broth is strained and ready for ladling into bowls.


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Jenna Pelletier Jenna Pelletier, Food Editor at Boston Magazine jpelletier@bostonmagazine.com