Ice Cream: Upscale
Ice cream gets the fine dining treatment.
The Deconstructed Creamsicle
How do you turn a nostalgic childhood treat into a complex fine-dining dessert? Rialto executive pastry chef Jonathan Posiko explains the thinking behind each ingredient in his strawberry-creamsicle piĂ¨ce de rĂ©sistance.
1. Macerated Strawberries
â€śItâ€™s a strawberry creamsicleâ€”you gotta get the strawberry in there! I macerated them mainly to impart more flavor and give it a little shine.â€ť
2. Orange-Tarragon Marmalade
â€śI wanted to tame the sweetness of the orange with an herbal flavor. Tarragon complements both strawberries and oranges.â€ť
3. Strawberry-Tarragon GelĂ©e
â€śThat was a preparation to give a nice, bright strawberry flavor, as well as a visual aspect with the bright red on the plate.â€ť
4. Sugared Clementines
â€śUsually the orange provides a crusty exterior to a creamsicle, and I was playing on that by giving the clementine a crusty exteriorâ€”but when you bite into it, itâ€™s soft and juicy.â€ť
5. Cannoli Shell
â€śI always try to get something crispy into a dessert. I incorporated the shell as I thought of the creamsicle being in a tube, like a push-up pop.â€ť
6. Strawberry-Orange-Mascarpone Ice Cream
â€śI decided to do something a little more Italian, and that was where the mascarpone came in. I flavored it with condensed orange juice to get the orange flavor into the cream.â€ť
7. Chopped Pistachios
â€śAlong with the mascarpone and the cannoli shell, this was a play on the cannoli, while keeping in line with the other flavors on the plate.â€ť
8. Candied Fennel
â€śIt gives the dessert some herbal, vegetal flavors instead of straight sweet. I always enjoy fennel at the end of the mealâ€”it cools and aids in digestion.â€ť
9. Dehydrated Strawberry Powder
â€śI dried strawberries and put them through a sieve. Itâ€™s one more textural difference.â€ť
Ice cream is being put to thought-provoking and delicious use in some of the cityâ€™s other top kitchens, too. Here, how four pastry chefs are taking ice cream to the next level.
Porcini ice cream with a pine-nut tart and rosemary-lemon emulsion
Pastry chef PJ Waters infuses dried porcini mushrooms into ice cream for a flavor thatâ€™s at once malty, mapley, and mushroomy.
White-chocolate-strawberry ice cream with a wild-strawberry tart, basil emulsion, cheddar tuile, and rhubarb
For added sweetness, pastry sous chef Giselle Miller incorporates white chocolate into her strawberry ice cream.
Blackberry ice cream with â€śchocolate decadenceâ€ť cake, blackberry coulis, angelica syrup, and sugar-honey tuile
Chef de cuisine Anthony Mazzotta uses summer-friendly blackberries for a creamy, tart accent to his ultra-rich cake.
Smoked bourbon ice cream with cherry clafouti, orange caramel, and sugar-cookie crumble
Inspired by Laphroaig whiskey and the Old Fashioned cocktail, pastry chef Katherine Hamilburg smokes ice cream and loads it up with bourbon.
Why does ice cream at high-end restaurants look like a football?
That pointed oval shape is a quenelle, a classic technique in pastry kitchens. â€śYou have to practice a long time to perfect the technique,â€ť says Giselle Miller, of Deuxave. â€śIf the ice cream is too runny or hard, it wonâ€™t work. You have to have the perfect texture.â€ť
Ice Cream forâ€¦Dinner?
Yes, ice cream has found a place in savory courses at some upper-echelon spots. These are a few unusual ingredients that have been turned into mind-bending ice creams around town.
From left to right:
Mustard |Â Puritan & Company
Chef Will Gilson uses mustard ice cream to accent a plate of swordfish pastrami.
Sweet Corn | Grill 23
Sweet-corn ice cream tops the lobster potpie at Jay Murrayâ€™s steakhouse.
Washed-Rind Cheese | Tres Gatos
In a play on wine-and-cheese pairings, chef Marcos Sanchez serves Jasper Hill Winnimere ice cream with Manzanilla or Amontillado sherry.
Arugula | Journeyman
Chefs Tse Wei Lim and Diana Kudajarova turn the peppery green into ice cream for an amuse-bouche with salmon roe.
Check out our complete summer ice cream package.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/restaurants/article/2013/06/25/ice-cream-upscale-boston/