Juicy Fruits: Tomato-centric Dishes by Four Boston-Area Chefs
Truth is, itâ€™s nearly impossible to top the summertime pleasure of a sandwich made with mayonnaise, flaky salt, cracked pepper, and a few fat slices of that perfect seasonal treat, the tomato. Of course, that hasnâ€™t kept a number of fine area chefs from creating inspired tomato-centric dishes of their own. Hereâ€™s a sampling.
Gazpacho â€ş Salts, Cambridge
Chef-owner Gabriel Bremer puts a twist on the classic Spanish soups gazpacho and salmorejo (a creamy, purĂ©ed tomato-and-bread soup thatâ€™s served cold) by using some of the 30-odd varieties of heirloom tomatoes he grows on his New Hampshire farm. â€śHere, you have all of the traditional garnishes that you would see in gazpacho, but everything has been tweaked a little,â€ť Bremer says, pointing to the toasted bread slivers, olive oil powder, and fresh herbs and flowers that make his version anything but traditional.
ProvenĂ§al-style Gratin â€ş Gaslight, South End
Inspired by a traditional French dish called tomatoes ProvenĂ§alâ€”in which overripe tomatoes are stuffed with stale bread and cheese and then roastedâ€”chef Mike Zentner created a dish of soubise (a light, oniony cream sauce) topped with tomato wedges, bread crumbs, Parmesan, and herbs. â€śEverything kind of moves together, so it almost has this pizza quality to it,â€ť Zentner says. For an added flourish, he roasts it to order in a cast-iron Staub dish.
Heirloom Salad â€ş Lineage, Brookline
Youâ€™ll find a tomato-and-mozzarella salad on every menu in townâ€”which is why chef de cuisine Alex Saenz wanted to mix his up a bit, creating a dish based on his motherâ€™s tomato-and-chickpea salad recipe. Crisp-edged panisse croutons stand in for the chickpeas, while a hazelnut romesco sauce, pickled shallots, and an ajĂ amarillo aioli add creaminess, heat, and tang.
Tomato Panna Cotta â€ş 5 Corners Kitchen, Marblehead
â€śI like taking things that are normally savory and making them sweet, because Iâ€™m not a fan of super-sweet desserts,â€ť says chef-owner Barry Edelman. To make this after-dinner treat, Edelman infuses tomato-water syrup into a panna cotta base, and, for brightness and a sweet-savory complexity, tops it with a thin layer of tomato-marjoram gelĂ©e, candied cracked pepper, and a honey-glazed tomato slice.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/restaurants/article/2013/07/30/tomato-dishes-boston-chefs/