103-Word Valentine to Shoulder-Season Dishes
Last October, a Deuxave duck-confit special blew me away. The burnished skin was flawless, but the genius was in the plating: piquant yellow-pepper piperade; raisiny tomato jam; crispy disks of cornmeal-and-smoked-paprika-dusted green tomato. The finesse with which the chef straddled seasonsâ€”bright, sprightly late summer woven seamlessly into fallâ€™s impending earthinessâ€”reminded me what a revelation such shoulder-season dishesÂ can be and how often, instead, theyâ€™re poorly calibrated mash-ups (i.e., a striper with a heavy, ill-matched chanterelle sage sauce I endured elsewhere one September evening). As winter thaws into spring, hereâ€™s hoping more kitchens nail the underlying key change with such glorious subtlety.
Source URL: http://www.bostonmagazine.com/restaurants/article/2014/02/25/chefs-shoulder-season-dishes/