A Dive Revived
Newton’s once weathered Biltmore tries out life as an upscale pub.
- RAISING THE BAR: The Biltmore ups the ante on casual grub. Photo by Noah Jewell.
If you haven’t stepped foot in the Biltmore in a while, you might not recognize the place. The mediocre bar food, the shabby décor, the hovering Keno screen (for years, the main attraction)—all gone, courtesy of a radical makeover that includes a new mahogany bar, spruced-up furniture, and a revised menu that’s more upscale gastro-pub than pub grub as usual.
Chef Seth Morrison offers fussily prepared, casually presented classics: the Ploughman Platter’s silky chicken liver paté, house-cured pork belly, and lemon zest–topped goat cheese; ale-steamed mussels (which had us reusing the shells to slurp down as much garlicky broth as possible); and a juicy bourbon-glazed meatloaf that’s baked, then grilled, to get the exterior gorgeously sticky and charred. Wisely, the new owners held on to a few familiar touches, such as the original pressed-tin ceiling. A wooden sign on the wall, saved from the bar’s early days as a bustling speakeasy, reads “Good Times, Good Friends, We’re Glad You’re Here.” We’ll second that.
1205 Chestnut St., Newton Upper Falls, 617-527-2550, biltmorenewton.com. $$
Chef Seth Morrison offers fussily prepared, casually presented classics: the Ploughman Platter’s silky chicken liver paté, house-cured pork belly, and lemon zest–topped goat cheese; ale-steamed mussels (which had us reusing the shells to slurp down as much garlicky broth as possible); and a juicy bourbon-glazed meatloaf that’s baked, then grilled, to get the exterior gorgeously sticky and charred. Wisely, the new owners held on to a few familiar touches, such as the original pressed-tin ceiling. A wooden sign on the wall, saved from the bar’s early days as a bustling speakeasy, reads “Good Times, Good Friends, We’re Glad You’re Here.” We’ll second that.
1205 Chestnut St., Newton Upper Falls, 617-527-2550, biltmorenewton.com. $$
Originally published in Boston magazine, July 2007
