Small Bites Article |
A Real Knockout
Who says a steakhouse has to hew to the boys-club tradition?
By Jane Black
- NEXT OF KEN: The chicest beef in town. Photo by Noah Jewell.
“Just what we need!” was the snide reaction to word that Ken Oringer’s latest project, KO Prime, would be yet another steakhouse. Another meatery, even a “modern” one, simply wasn’t what Boston lacked.
Or was it? Like celeb chefs in New York and L.A., Oringer has created a steakhouse that’s in touch with its feminine side. Yes, the usuals are here: the Flintstones-size rib-eye and, for the really macho, the $30-an-ounce cut of Wagyu. But it’s the other stuff that sets KO apart, like the cowgirl-chic décor, a dainty crab-and-grapefruit salad, and chichi sides like the oh-so-à-la-mode aligote potatoes, which stretch like taffy. Early on, not every riff was in key, but we’re betting it’s only a matter of time before the delicate pea tendrils in Asian vinaigrette become a steakhouse classic.
Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., Boston, 617-772-0202, koprimeboston.com
Or was it? Like celeb chefs in New York and L.A., Oringer has created a steakhouse that’s in touch with its feminine side. Yes, the usuals are here: the Flintstones-size rib-eye and, for the really macho, the $30-an-ounce cut of Wagyu. But it’s the other stuff that sets KO apart, like the cowgirl-chic décor, a dainty crab-and-grapefruit salad, and chichi sides like the oh-so-à-la-mode aligote potatoes, which stretch like taffy. Early on, not every riff was in key, but we’re betting it’s only a matter of time before the delicate pea tendrils in Asian vinaigrette become a steakhouse classic.
Nine Zero Hotel, 90 Tremont St., Boston, 617-772-0202, koprimeboston.com
Originally published in Philadelphia magazine, November 2006
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