The Ultimate: Blueberry Pancakes

***** Deluxe Town Diner
After plowing through piles of indistinguishable flapjacks—diluted syrup, ho-hum berry flavor, bitter off notes (the usual culprit: too much baking powder)—we flipped at the first taste of the real deal. Rich and velvety, like blueberries bathed in sweet cream, the cakes at the Deluxe Town Diner get their sumptuous texture from buttermilk laced with sour cream. Topped with powdered sugar, a dollop of butter, and genuine Vermont maple syrup from Merton's sugarhouse in Putney, they blow other contenders out of the batter. 627 Mount Auburn St., Watertown, 617-926-8400, deluxetowndiner.com. 

On the Flip Side [The Runners Up]

* * *1/2  The Paramount: Fresh blueberries sweetened the deal, but too much juice sapped the texture. 44 Charles St., Boston, 617-720-1152, paramountboston.com.

* * *  McKenna's Café: A lacy stack drowned in melted butter (not in a good way). 109 Savin Hill Ave., Dorchester, 617-825-8218, mckennascafe.com.

* * 1/2  Charlie's Sandwich Shoppe: Overly dense batter, unredeemed by terrific berries. 429 Columbus Ave., Boston, 617-536-7669.

*  Mike's City Diner: Bland blues in floury cakes topped with watery syrup. 1714 Washington St., Boston, 617-267-9393, mikescitydiner.com.