Dairy Queen

Raw milk may be inspiring a cult following among healthy eaters, but for me the lure is quite the opposite. I buy it for the thick band of cream that sits atop every gallon like a sumptuous crown, and tastes like…well, it’s easier to say what it doesn’t taste like. It’s not bland, with that cooked creaminess you get from the ultrapasteurized version (which has been heated from chilled to above boiling in less than two seconds to make it last for weeks). This cream is vibrant, grassy—alive. Add a little buttermilk and let it sit, and you have crème fraîche to stir through a summer soup. Or use it to make butter, which in turn will yield the flakiest pie crust you’ve ever had. Personally, I like to relish it in its purest form, spooned over fresh berries or peaches—or right out of the jar. —J.B.