Eat 2008: Where to Dine Now

Olé

Chef and co-owner Erwin Ramos didn’t grow up on burritos and mole (he’s Filipino). And his culinary training was classically French and Italian. Once he took an interest in Mexican cuisine, though, he went full throttle, immersing himself in the country’s diverse regional styles. Olé’s menu reflects that education, taking diners on a journey through the familiar (chicken enchiladas with Mexican rice and black beans, $14.70) and the far-flung (Chiapas-style chili-seasoned pork with plantains and homemade tortillas, $18). And while one entrée, the lobster meat and shrimp in a garlic-guajillo sauce, barely cracks our price limit at $26, the rest of the expansive menu is pleasantly economical. Special Sauce: The superb guacamole ($9), prepared tableside in a traditional molcajete.

11 Springfield St., Cambridge, 617-492-4495, olegrill.com.

Orinoco
Owner Andres Branger serves up far-from-pedestrian comfort food in this vibrant Venezuelan haven, where the brightly colored décor chases away the winter blahs, and the pabellón criollo, warmly spiced shredded beef, dispels any lingering chill. Chef Carlos Rodriguez trained with Doug Rodriguez (no relation), considered the father of the “Nuevo Latino” movement in Miami, as evidenced in specials like the cordero: lamb chops crusted with pistachio, panela, and plantain, and served with mint mojo. Pair it with a terrific malbec from Argentina or some fresh passion fruit juice, and you have yourself a new antidote to seasonal affective disorder. Buen Comida: A mechada (beef) arepa ($5.95) with the beet and goat cheese salad ($7).

477 Shawmut Ave., Boston, 617-369-7075, orinocokitchen.com.

Petit Robert Bistro
As satisfying as some of the newer Boston brasseries can be, their menus often bend to American tastes. Petit Robert Bistro, on the other hand, feels 100 percent Gallic. It helps that it’s owned by a Frenchman, Jacky Robert, who cooked for many years at his family’s late, great Maison Robert. Now he’s running his own ship, serving classic dishes like escargots bourguignons ($7.75), traditional sole and shrimp quenelles ($10.50), and coq au vin ($15.75) at his twin restaurants in Kenmore Square and the South End. Service can at times be brusque—but that just makes it all the more authentic, doesn’t it? Powerful Stuff: The hearty lamb cassoulet with merguez sausage and bacon ($16.75).

468 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-375-0699; 480 Columbus Ave., Boston, 617-867-0600; petitrobertbistro.com.

Pops
He’s not trying to reinvent American cooking, but chef-owner Felino Samson still manages to surprise and delight with touches like the peppery apple cider gastrique glaze on his Kurobuta pork chop ($19), the argan oil and lemon crème fraîche dressing on the beet and arugula salad ($9), and the organic pickles that accompany the generous sandwiches. Throughout the menu, organic ingredients play a big role, and the lovely décor gets the belle époque vibe just right. It’s all about the details here—an approach perhaps most appreciated in the gooey fresh-baked cookie that arrives with a lunchtime check. Frivolous Indulgence: The optional drizzle of white truffle oil on any dish for $14. (Really, the food has plenty of flavor on its own.)

560 Tremont St., Boston, 617-695-1250, popsrestaurant.net.

Rocca
The debut of Rocca last year was a watershed in the midprice restaurant boom: a major, press-grabbing launch from local legend Michela Larson and partners Gary Sullivan and Karen Haskell—cofounders of Rialto and Blu—with an enthusiastic Ligurian-themed menu and most entrées kept under $23. Prices have come up a bit since, making this one of the costlier entries on our list, but the satisfying pasta dishes still run from $12 to $17, and the most expensive entrées—the outstanding roasted fish with herbs, olives, and potatoes, as well as the Ligurian fish stew burrida, both at $25—continue to deliver solid value. That’s an Order: Anything made with chef Tom Fosnot’s extraordinary pesto.

500 Harrison Ave., Boston, 617-451-5151, roccaboston.com.

Sagra
This Davis Square eatery is both welcoming neighborhood Italian place and destination restaurant. While the dining room still has the awkward layout of one of Sagra’s predecessors, the lounge Sauce, the food bears no resemblance to pub grub: Chef-owner Robert DeSimone has amassed a stack of unforgettable recipes during numerous trips throughout Italy, and it shows. When you’re feeling decadent, try the Grand Melody sampler of arancini croquettes, calamari, and stuffed olives ($16)—DeSimone is a master of light-as-air frying. Move on to the pillowy gnocchi ($14) that actually taste of the potatoes in the dough, or a fine grilled swordfish served with caponata ($17). Textbook Italian: The bitter greens salad ($7), followed by the bruschetta appetizer ($7).

400 Highland Ave., Somerville, 617-625-4200, sagrarestaurant.com.

The Savant Project
If you’re wondering where the artists and cool kids have gone now that most of the South End is too expensive, drop into the Savant Project. The Mission Hill restaurant and lounge is a Cheers for the boho set, an always-animated gathering spot with local art on the walls, live music, and potent cocktails. The concept is Asian-Latin fusion, a conceit that might seem overworked if dishes like scallop ceviche in a fried plantain cup ($5.50) and beef sliders with grilled cucumber and toasted rice vinegar ($5.50) weren’t so fun. We’re looking forward to seeing chef Isaac Kaufman expand the range of entrées (for now, try the crispy chicken served with a sweet potato pancake for $17), so long as he also retains his sense of playful experimentation. Mmm…Doughnuts: The crispy-gooey churros with a spicy chocolate dipping sauce ($6).

1625 Tremont St., Boston, 617-566-5958, thesavantproject.com.

Ten Tables
The pastas and sausages are house-made. In season, the produce comes from nearby farms. The menu has a decidedly European bent, but there’s a New England sensibility at play, too. This is Boston’s truest Chez Panisse descendant—only with much more egalitarian prices. Which is why, these days, you have to call at least seven days ahead to get a reservation. Chef David Punch’s menu changes weekly, to capture whatever’s freshest in the markets. In winter, that can mean delicacies like rock shrimp with orecchiette, black pepper, and pancetta ($17), or soothing roasted polenta with mushroom ragout, braised kale, and a poached egg ($16). Green Party: An elegant (and surprisingly substantial) four-course vegetarian tasting ($25), offered every day except Wednesday.

597 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-524-8810, tentables.net.

Trattoria Toscana
After two Italian expat pals described Trattoria Toscana as their favorite Boston restaurant, we knew it was time to take a look. Grazie mille for the recommendation—this little Fenway gem captures the spirit and style of a Florence trattoria, without the punishing exchange rate. The cooking stays true to the Italian ethos of coaxing maximum flavor out of a simple array of ingredients (good olive oil, garlic, fresh mushrooms and tomatoes). And if the décor won’t win any awards, it is warm and homey, just like the food. Quite the Hunk: The tagliata di manzo ($22), a nicely seasoned grilled sirloin served with peppery arugula and shaved Parmesan cheese.

130 Jersey St., Boston, 617-247-9508.

Tremont 647
Chef Andy Husbands’s cooking reflects his love of southern accents, whether that means the American South (New Orleans barbecued shrimp, $9.50; ribs and cornbread, $19.50), south of the border (lime and garlic chicken with jicama salad, $20), or Southeast Asia (Vietnamese coffee, $4). What holds it all together is Husbands’s gift for Big Flavor, not to mention his staff’s polished but casually friendly approach to service. This is the kind of place where one could easily imagine becoming a regular—which helps explain why Tremont 647 has lasted more than 10 years as one of the South End’s neighborhood go-tos. All-American Team: The half-pound burger of grass-fed beef ($12.50) paired with sides of coleslaw and cornbread ($3 each).

647 Tremont St., Boston, 617-266-4600, tremont647.com.

Go on to the next page for four worth-every-penny feasts...