Dining Out Article |
Follow That Bird
Pleasant autumn temps call for outdoor picnics. Picnics, obviously, call for fried chicken. Where to get the best versions of the good bird this far north of the Mason-Dixon line.
By MC Slim JB
- Photograph by Vito Aluia.
Hunting for great fried chicken in Boston is a little like seeking the finest lobster roll in Albuquerque. Southern specialties just aren’t our long suit. And yet, as the buzz surrounding the new Dorchester eatery Mrs. Jones has proven, Bostonians have a craving for this archetypal hands-on soul food. To discover worthy incarnations, all you need is bit of patience (proper fried chicken is made to order and takes a good 15 minutes), a willingness to explore, and the ability to ignore your cholesterol count for the day.
Bob’s Southern Bistro
The former Bob the Chef’s draws the South End’s friendliest, most diverse crowd in search of refined home cooking, live jazz, and strong drinks. The signature Bob’s Famous “Glorifried” Chicken boasts a thick and pleasantly crunchy coating. Here, as elsewhere, fried-chicken fanatics know to order the moister, richer dark-meat option, a whole drumstick and thigh. Crispiness: 7 (out of 10) Juiciness: 7 Overall finger-lickin’ goodness: 7. ($11.95 dark/$12.95 white; 604 Columbus Ave., Boston, 617-536-6204, bobssouthernbistro.com)
Coast Café
Great fried chicken, but with a caveat: Get the thighs, even if you’re a breast man. This tiny storefront just outside Central Square fries its chicken to a deep toffee brown, which results in perfect dark meat—crunchy-crisp, succulent, peppery, and not the least bit greasy—but overtaxes delicate breasts. So be brave. Otherwise, don’t blame us if your white meat is dry. Crispiness: 8 Juiciness: 6 Overall finger-lickin’ goodness: 7.
($9.25; 233 River St., Cambridge, 617-354-7644)
Packy Connors Pub
To nonlocals, this windowless, cavernous neighborhood tavern in lower Roxbury may appear unpromising, even a little daunting. But intrepid diners are rewarded with a cheap, ample feast. With superlight batter, a dusting of salt, and a hefty dose of pepper, these gigantic, meaty whole wings are fantastically crisp-skinned, leaner than most, yet still mouthwatering. Crispiness: 8 Juiciness: 8 Overall finger-lickin’ goodness: 8.
($6.50; 203 Blue Hill Ave., Roxbury, 617-442-7827)
Go on to the next page for four more top fried chicken choices...
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