Going Public

No one seems sure whether the name of the place is Boston Public or Boston Public Meat—not even the staff. That’s not the only mystery surrounding chef Pino Maffeo’s relaunched Restaurant L at Louis Boston, which has the fashion and foodie crowds wondering things like: What is Asian-steakhouse fusion? What’s up with the dreary brown-on-brown décor? Thankfully, Maffeo’s flair for provocative food remains as on display as ever. The menu features many holdover favorites—tuna sashimi summer rolls, the signature Laotian ribs—alongside newcomers like cilantro pancakes with sweet chili dipping sauce, and Kobe beef burgers with cinnamon pickles. While our swordfish was dry, the Angus filet earned its $33 price tag, and the palm sugar–glazed wild king salmon—was a plate to be cleaned.

234 Berkeley St., Boston, 617-266-4680, louisboston.com. $$$$