Dining Features Article

Menuology: Top-Secret Tuna (and Other Furtive Fare)

A curated roundup of the city's best off-menu faves.

By Elizabeth Bomze

STEALTHY CHOICE: The unlisted tuna tartare from the Franklin Cafe. Photo by Betsy Halsey.

Ever since we got wise to Gaslight's addictive Parisian street burger (see Consumer Index, April), an unlisted ground beef–stuffed baguette ($12.95), we've wondered how many other treats we'd missed by ordering off the printed menu like naifs. Quite a few, it turns out.

Eastern Standard The Kenmore brasserie's French onion soup is a clandestine crock of beef broth topped with rustic bread and bubbling Gruyère ($8). For dessert, in-the-know sweet tooths go for the stellar profiteroles ($3 each). 528 Commonwealth Ave., Boston, 617-532-9100, easternstandardboston.com.


Franklin Café Sushi-grade tuna is so pricey that this neighborhood boîte prefers not to advertise its delectable tuna tartare ($9). The dense, silky morsels are tossed with chive oil, dolloped with sweet sesame-ginger aioli, and served with crispy crostini. 278 Shawmut Ave., Boston, 617-350-0010; 152 Dorchester Ave., Boston, 617-269-1003; franklincafe.com.


Garden at the Cellar Cantabrigians spend boozy nights at this epicurean tavern, then stumble back in the next day for its all-day egg sandwich: two half-runny eggs, aged Vermont cheddar, local bacon, avocado, and rosemary-Dijon aioli on a buttery brioche bun ($9). Rosemary-truffle fries included. 991 Massachusetts Ave., Cambridge, 617-230-5880, gardenatthecellar.com.


Craigie On Main Spontaneous menu-wrangling is chef Tony Maws's specialty, but his by-request-only roasted bone marrow is invariably on hand: decadent beef bones ($10), split lengthwise for easy scooping, with plenty of fleur de sel and toasted country bread. 853 Main St., Cambridge, 617-497-5511, craigieonmain.com.

Originally published in Boston magazine, June 2009
 

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