No Reservations

Clark Frasier and Mark Gaier first achieved fame with Arrows, their Ogunquit, Maine, restaurant—a sylvan temple of haute cuisine boasting lush flower and vegetable gardens, an apple orchard, and an East-meets-West fusion of exotic ingredients and precise technique. That’s why it was sort of a shock when they announced their Massachusetts debut would be housed in…a Marriott. In Burlington. Next to the mall.

Yet Summer Winter seems designed to improve upon its surroundings without alienating the hotel crowd. For one, Marriott agreed to build a greenhouse, onto which the stainless steel and stacked stone dining room looks out, to supply herbs and greens to the kitchen year-round. Starters set an optimistic tone (unless you are anti-pleasure, do not miss the Massachusetts blue cheese soup). Entrées like roast chicken with lemon and garlic and “Clark’s Mom’s” paprika-roasted duck for two are relatively plain but stick close to Yankee flavors, and there’s something refreshing in such geographic specificity. This isn’t mere comfort food; it’s comfort food with a sense of place.

Boston Marriott Burlington, One Burlington Mall Rd., Burlington, 781-221-6643, summerwinterrestaurant.com. SS$$$$