On a Chicken Wing and a Prayer

A recent dinner at Church in the Fenway reminded us of just how few great little neighborhood spots this town has. And Church is a model of its kind: accessible, relatively affordable, and tailor-made for its environs. There’s the Goth-lite theme, which is edgy enough for area students without being too scary for their visiting parents; an adjacent music venue for the late-night crowd; and the food, which tastes as if it’s made by an actual pro (that’s chef Andy Beer, formerly of UpStairs on the Square). The steamed mussels were plump and submerged in a heady garlicky tomato broth, and the tuna spring rolls surpassed expectations by arriving hot and crispy, with a cooling crunch of carrots and cabbage within.

The entrées were spottier. The salmon with a simple mustard sauce was just right, and the cheeseburger on black pepper brioche was, well, divine. But the priciest items on the menu—steak, halibut, and lamb shank—came over- or undercooked, with inadequate seasoning. The wine list offers plenty of options in the $20-to-$40 range, and the “Seven Deadly Sins”–themed cocktails are a must. Who knew “Lust” would be our downfall?

69 Kilmarnock St., Boston, 617-236-7600, churchofboston.com. $$$