Dining, Food & Wine Article

Say "Local"!

The best mozzarella is the stuff found closest to home.

By Amy Traverso

FRESH TWISTS: Cheese from Fiore di Nonno.

Truly fresh mozzarella is a singular pleasure—and one that can be tough to come by, since even a day's aging can turn it comparatively dull and heavy. That's why connoisseurs buy local whenever they can. Crafted daily in Somerville by fourth-generation cheese-maker Lourdes Fiore Smith—who first learned the trade in her grandfather's shop—Fiore di Nonno mozzarella possesses a sweet, milky flavor and airy texture that'll leave you hard-pressed to head back to the deli case. In winter months, Smith sells the cheeses (among them her decadent burrata, a mozzarella "purse" filled with mascarpone) at Lionette's Market in the South End and Dave's Fresh Pasta in Davis Square. In warmer weather, she makes the rounds of farmers' markets, including those in Copley, Davis, and Harvard squares. Yet another reason to hope for an early spring. Fiore di Nonno mozzarella and burrata retail for $6.50–$7.50; fioredinonno.com.

Panzano Provviste e Vino, 154 Turnpike Rd (Rte. 9), Southborough, 508-485-8884, panzanomarket.com
 

Originally published in Boston magazine, March 2008
 

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