Shining Example

For years we’ve bemoaned Boston’s lack of stylish, midprice dining options. We know, we know, the city’s high cost of rent, food, and labor means steeper prices—but can’t we just have a nice moules frites, a glass of wine, and a little glamour for under $25? Why, yes, mes amis, we can, and in the South End, no less.

Boston’s newest brasserie, Gaslight, from the folks behind Aquitaine, has finally opened its doors (construction began in January 2006), and we’re happy to say it was worth the wait. The high-ceilinged rooms—with their white subway-tile walls, marble-topped tables, and wood floors—are done up in classic bistro style. And while that brasserie/bistro mash-up may upset purists, we see no reason to split hairs. Not when the pissaladière Provençal (pizza from Nice) offers such tender lamb and earthy chèvre, the pommes frites are this crisp and golden, and the almond cake is so sweetly fragrant. The large bar area makes Gaslight a sociable spot to meet up with a group, and free parking means your friends have no excuse to stay home.

560 Harrison Ave., Boston, 617-422-0224, gaslight560.com. $$