Dining Features Article |
The Best Sandwiches: New Classics
By Erin Byers, editor
Given the culinary genius in Boston, we thought a good sandwich would be a cinch to find. So off we went, gobbling up more than 30 contenders. We deconstructed, then reassembled, them, taking into account bite radius, meat distribution, and overall dimension. And what did we learn? That finding the perfect sandwich is like rediscovering a lost art. From old favorites to new classics, edible escapes, and a few chefs’ secrets, here is our ultimate guide to the best.
Duck Confit Simply slapping a handful of ingredients between two slices of bread does not a great sandwich make. Tom Fosnot, the chef at Blu, spends three days on his lunchtime-only pressed duck confit with Gruyere. First, there’s the duck: the breast meat is confited in a mixture of salt, coriander, bay leaves, and thyme, then slow-cooked. Next, Fosnot ever so carefully caramelizes the onions (tender strips that all but melt with each bite) and apples (buttery slivers of sweetness), then piles it all on sturdy Tuscan bread to be covered with gruyere and grilled. It may consume three days to make, but it takes only minutes to devour. Show the chef your appreciation by enjoying every bite. $14, Blu at the Sports Club/LA, 4 Avery St., Boston, 617-375-8550, blurestaurant.com.
California Roll-up “Tastes like sushi!” reads the menu. Not really, but this tiny kitchen’s most popular wrap does taste decidedly healthy – and, indeed, features players from all four food groups. Crab stick (that’s, er, seafood), cucumber, scallions, and heaps of avocado come together in a white or whole wheat wrap to form an airy midday meal that fills without overstuffing. A just-right douse of wasabi mayo gives every bite a little karate-chop kick. $6.50, Rachel’s Kitchen, 12 Church St., Boston, 617-423-3447, rachelskitchenboston.com.
Tuna Burger Let’s be clear: Burgers are not sandwiches. But the tuna burger at Café D has to be called out just for the sheer joy we get from eating it. The patty alone is worth the price: juicy, chunky, yet it fits just so on the bun. In another kitchen, the savory tapenade, smoky roasted tomato, and aioli that top it might overpower the fish. Here, those pleasantly subdued flavors only embellish it, taking it from mere burger status to singular sensation. $12.50, Café D, 711 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-522-9500.
Portobello Mushroom The hearty, earthy portobello is justifiably given center stage at Sel de la Terre’s boulangerie. The floppy, saucer-sized disc of mushroom is topped with apple slices, grilled scallions, sprouts, garlicky aioli, and a creamy Brie, then placed on a fragrant rosemary focaccia (one of the best in town). The balance of flavors is divine and a composed salad of salted cabbage on the side makes this meal a happy one. $8.95, Sel de la Terre, 255 State St., Boston, 617-720-1300, seldelaterre.com.
Summer Burrito There are days—few and far between, admittedly—when a regular burrito with all its cheesy, sour creamy, guacamole-y accoutrements may be too much to swallow. And that’s when we love Boloco’s Summer Burrito. The soft, flour tortilla is filled with aromatic cilantro-lime rice, black beans, a hint of cheese, and mango salsa. We love it with grilled chicken, but you can choose steak or—in keeping with the “diet theme”—organic tofu. You could also lighten the carb load by opting to go tortilla-free and taking the fillings in a bowl. But come on: Live a little. Regular, $5; Large, $6, Boloco, 133 Federal St., Boston, 617-357-9727 and other locations, inspiredburritos.com.
Bean Burger People who claim that a bean burger is a poor substitute for a hamburger are usually spot-on. However, we happily sink our otherwise meat-loving teeth into Audubon Circle’s housemade black bean and corn patty. Served on a flaky, rounded mini-boulé bun, the burger is slightly charred on the outside but gives way to a moist and flavorful interior. Topped with shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, melted cheddar cheese, and a spicy chili mayo, it’s irresistible—even to meat lovers. $8, Audubon Circle, 838 Beacon St., Boston, 617-421-1910.
Smoked Salmon The well-edited ingredients of Darwin’s fresh smoked salmon (called the Broadway at the Cambridge Street location and the Brattle at the Mt. Auburn location) make for an oh-so-fancy option that’s just right for every day. Everything comes together just so: Cream cheese, cucumber, tomato, capers, red onion and rich, smoked fish fill the hollows of its sourdough bread borders, making this a refreshing palate pleaser. $7.25, Darwin’s Ltd., 148 Mt. Auburn St., Cambridge, 617-354-5233; 1629 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-491-2999, darwinsltd.com.
Coming up in Part 2: The Gut Busters.
Part 2: The New Classics
Duck Confit Simply slapping a handful of ingredients between two slices of bread does not a great sandwich make. Tom Fosnot, the chef at Blu, spends three days on his lunchtime-only pressed duck confit with Gruyere. First, there’s the duck: the breast meat is confited in a mixture of salt, coriander, bay leaves, and thyme, then slow-cooked. Next, Fosnot ever so carefully caramelizes the onions (tender strips that all but melt with each bite) and apples (buttery slivers of sweetness), then piles it all on sturdy Tuscan bread to be covered with gruyere and grilled. It may consume three days to make, but it takes only minutes to devour. Show the chef your appreciation by enjoying every bite. $14, Blu at the Sports Club/LA, 4 Avery St., Boston, 617-375-8550, blurestaurant.com.
California Roll-up “Tastes like sushi!” reads the menu. Not really, but this tiny kitchen’s most popular wrap does taste decidedly healthy – and, indeed, features players from all four food groups. Crab stick (that’s, er, seafood), cucumber, scallions, and heaps of avocado come together in a white or whole wheat wrap to form an airy midday meal that fills without overstuffing. A just-right douse of wasabi mayo gives every bite a little karate-chop kick. $6.50, Rachel’s Kitchen, 12 Church St., Boston, 617-423-3447, rachelskitchenboston.com.
Tuna Burger Let’s be clear: Burgers are not sandwiches. But the tuna burger at Café D has to be called out just for the sheer joy we get from eating it. The patty alone is worth the price: juicy, chunky, yet it fits just so on the bun. In another kitchen, the savory tapenade, smoky roasted tomato, and aioli that top it might overpower the fish. Here, those pleasantly subdued flavors only embellish it, taking it from mere burger status to singular sensation. $12.50, Café D, 711 Centre St., Jamaica Plain, 617-522-9500.
Portobello Mushroom The hearty, earthy portobello is justifiably given center stage at Sel de la Terre’s boulangerie. The floppy, saucer-sized disc of mushroom is topped with apple slices, grilled scallions, sprouts, garlicky aioli, and a creamy Brie, then placed on a fragrant rosemary focaccia (one of the best in town). The balance of flavors is divine and a composed salad of salted cabbage on the side makes this meal a happy one. $8.95, Sel de la Terre, 255 State St., Boston, 617-720-1300, seldelaterre.com.
Summer Burrito There are days—few and far between, admittedly—when a regular burrito with all its cheesy, sour creamy, guacamole-y accoutrements may be too much to swallow. And that’s when we love Boloco’s Summer Burrito. The soft, flour tortilla is filled with aromatic cilantro-lime rice, black beans, a hint of cheese, and mango salsa. We love it with grilled chicken, but you can choose steak or—in keeping with the “diet theme”—organic tofu. You could also lighten the carb load by opting to go tortilla-free and taking the fillings in a bowl. But come on: Live a little. Regular, $5; Large, $6, Boloco, 133 Federal St., Boston, 617-357-9727 and other locations, inspiredburritos.com.
Bean Burger People who claim that a bean burger is a poor substitute for a hamburger are usually spot-on. However, we happily sink our otherwise meat-loving teeth into Audubon Circle’s housemade black bean and corn patty. Served on a flaky, rounded mini-boulé bun, the burger is slightly charred on the outside but gives way to a moist and flavorful interior. Topped with shredded lettuce, chopped tomatoes, melted cheddar cheese, and a spicy chili mayo, it’s irresistible—even to meat lovers. $8, Audubon Circle, 838 Beacon St., Boston, 617-421-1910.
Smoked Salmon The well-edited ingredients of Darwin’s fresh smoked salmon (called the Broadway at the Cambridge Street location and the Brattle at the Mt. Auburn location) make for an oh-so-fancy option that’s just right for every day. Everything comes together just so: Cream cheese, cucumber, tomato, capers, red onion and rich, smoked fish fill the hollows of its sourdough bread borders, making this a refreshing palate pleaser. $7.25, Darwin’s Ltd., 148 Mt. Auburn St., Cambridge, 617-354-5233; 1629 Cambridge St., Cambridge, 617-491-2999, darwinsltd.com.
Coming up in Part 2: The Gut Busters.
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